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> Sectoral Antenna for the 2 and 5 GHz ISM Bands
Sectoral Antenna for the 2 and 5 GHz ISM Bands
I got the idea for
this from the antennas used on cell phone towers. These antennas,
called sectoral antennas in the industry, are usually made from an
array of dipoles or crossed dipoles with an electrically adjustable
corner reflector for shaping the beam. A typical cell tower will have 9
or more around the perimeter, each serving a separate, wedge shaped
area.
While the typical cell sectoral uses crossed dipoles
('bowties'), I had some trouble getting these to work at such a high
frequency. The typical dipole is ½λ long, which is only about 25
mm at 5 GHz, and multiple dipoles would be needed to work well with
both bands. This is on top of the problem of matching the antennas to
the transmission line. Too much work. What I eventually decided on is
the disc/cone (discone) antenna, like the ones popularly used with
police scanners. The best part is that there's no matching network of
any sort required, since the discone is a good match for 50Ω coaxial
cable, such as RG8.
Building the Antenna
The formula given in the is ARRL antenna book is L=246/fMHz
for the lowest frequency, although they don't really specify what
measurement that's given in. I'm going to assume it's feet, since
that's the only way that works out to a reasonable size. Using that
equation we get a result of 31 mm for L. B, the base of the cone,
should be equal to L, and D, the diameter of the disc, is equal to
L×0.7=22 mm.
I built the disc and cone out of a small
sheet of copper, like the ones people make jewelry
out of, soldered together with an ordinary soldering iron. The cable
that I used inside the antenna is regular cheap RG-58, which you can
get pretty much anywhere. The center conductor needs to be soldered to
the disc, and the braid needs to be soldered to the cone. The cone
should have just a millimeter or two of spacing from the disc. When
you're done, measure the resistance between the center conductor and
shield, it should be infinite or near infinite.
Building the Weather Cover
Now, here's what I
built the weather cover out of:
- Small sheet of black plastic
- Aluminum flashing
- Drywall
mud pan
- Rivets
- Milk jug
- Two angle brackets and two U-clamps
I used the black plastic as the backing, everything gets
attached to it. I used pop rivets to attach the aluminum flashing (in
the shape of a corner reflector) to the black plastic, then a few more
rivets to connect a couple of pieces of milk jug plastic to the corner
reflector. Then I used hot glue to attach the discone to this whole
contraption.
Four screws and two angle brackets are bolted to the
back of the black plastic, this is what will hold it to the mount once
everything's put together. The lead from the antenna is soldered to a
TNC connector. I chose the TNC connector for this for several reasons,
the main one being is that pretty much all access points, including the
one I'll be using this with, have RP-TNC connectors, and I already had
some laying around. Most of the nerds people who build
these things use N connectors, but those are bulky, expensive, and
offer little if any performance gain over the very similar TNC
connector at these frequencies.
Putting It All Together
The
last step was to mate the weather cover and backing.
I used this weird industrial strength epoxy resin that smell like the
most toxic thing ever, but it seems to be holding up well. I painted
the drywall pan white so that it doesn't stick out as much (mine was
red when I started). It's also probably a good idea to drill a very
small weep hole in the bottom of that pan, so that if water does make
its way in it has a way out.
I've put mine up on the corner of my garage, connected
to an old Cisco Aironet access point via a custom jumper I made out of
a 4 foot section of Belden 8214 RG-8 (BIG HONKIN) coaxial cable,
terminated with a TNC connector on one end and an RP-TNC connector on
the other. It works pretty well, I get good even coverage of my front
yard and I didn't have to buy an outdoor access point. I think overall
this project cost me about $10, since I had most of this stuff laying
around already. My only costs were about $4 for the copper sheet and $6
for an RP-TNC connector.
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