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Cabling for Dish Network Systems
Understanding Satellite Signal Distribution
Satellite has so much more bandwidth than cable TV that
single coaxial cable isn't able to carry all of it at once. For this
reason you can't use splitters to distribute the satellite signal to
multiple receivers. Each receiver needs its own separate line back to
the dish so it can select between different satellites.
What follows is a walkthrough of a three room
with a Dish 1000.2, one dual-tuner (Such as a ViP 222) and one
single-tuner (Such as the 311) using Dish Pro Plus. This is exactly the
way a new system would be installed by Dish Network technicians. Note
that if we were using all HD receivers we could use a 1000.2 Eastern
Arc LNB, if were were using all SD receivers we could use a Dish 500.
- Dish 1000.2
- 1000.2 Western Arc LNBF
- Dual RG-6 cable with grounding wire (Dish Network
Vextra brand, I prefer Commscope BrightWire)
- Grounding block
- RG-6 cable rated to 2150 MHz or higher (Dish Network
Vextra brand, I prefer Commscope BrightWire)
- Diplexer rated to 2150 MHz or higher (Such as the Holland DPD2)
- Wallplates rated to 3 GHz (Optional)
- Cable clips
- Compression connectors (Dish network uses PPC brand,
prefer PCT TRS-6)
The grounding block is considered the center of the
should either be placed outside - within 10 feet of the electric meter
or inside as close to where the cables enter the house as possible.
Strip the ground wire from the first three feet or so of dual cable.
Install compression connectors on one end of the dual cable, feed them
through the arm of the dish and connect them to the output ports of the
LNB. Make a short jumper out of three feet of cable and feed it through
the arm of the dish, connecting it to an output port - this is your
tuning lead. (Note: the
fourth port on the 1000.2 LNB is an input port. Nothing should be
connected to it.) Torque all
connectors to 22 in-lbs and mount the LNB to the dish with the screws
and peaking the dish, make a 4" loop out of the dual cable and
secure it to the back of the dish with cable ties, this should allow
enough slack for future upgrades. Run the cable down the mast and
secure with cable ties every four inches. Cut the ground wire off of
the dual cable, strip it and connect it to the base of the dish mount
using a self-tapping ground screw or an aluminum lug. Secure the cable
to the wall of the building every 18" with plastic clips. If the ground
block is installed outdoors, form a 4" drip loop around the block and
install connectors on the end of the dual cable. Make sure the cables
are all angled downward to direct water away from the connectors.
Torque the connectors to 22 in-lbs. Strip the ground wire and connect
it to the screw terminal on the grounding block. Using 10 gauge solid
copper wire connect the other screw terminal of the grounding block to
an approved ground. Approved grounds include: multi-system ground
terminals, the building's ground wire or ground rod, metal electrical
boxes and grounded copper cold-water pipes. Use plastic bushings and
silicone sealant where exterior cables enter the building.
Inside the building, run RG6 cable from
each room to the location of the ground block. Install compression or
crimp style connectors to the indoor cabling. Wallplates may be used,
be should be satellite grade wallplates, which are identifiable by
their blue color-coded barrel connectors. Torque any connectors used
inside a wall to prevent them from wiggling loose. Leave plenty of
slack, one foot or so, inside the wall in case future upgrades or
repairs are necessary. Never
use staples to secure cabling, and do not use fasteners of any type
inside a wall - the cable may need to be upgraded or replaced in the
future. When using wall boxes, do not use electrical wall boxes -
always use "low-voltage" wall boxes which have a completely open back.
Connecting the Receivers
Connect the 311 to its satellite cable. Hand tighten the
connection or use an indoor torque wrench set for 5 in-lbs. Connect the
311 to the TV using the best connection available - S-video, composite
video, or coaxial cable. At the ground block connect the 311's cable
directly to one of the ports on the ground block and torque to 22
in-lbs. Form a drip loop if this connection is made outside.
Connect the ports on the triplexer supplied with the 222
their proper inputs using the supplied jumpers. The blue ports on the
triplexer go to SATELLITE IN 1 and SATELLITE IN 2
on the receiver. The yellow port on the triplexer goes to the HOME
DISTRIBUTION port on the receiver. Satellite in 1 and 2 are the
tuner inputs. Home distribution is the output of the UHF modulator for
the second TV. The purple INPUT port of the
triplexer is connected to the line coming in from the dish. Firmly hand
tighten all connections or use an indoor torque wrench for 5 in-lbs.
Connect the TV to the 222 using the best possible connection - HDMI/DVI
or component video for HDTVs or S-Video or composite video for SD TVs.
Dish network HD receivers output a 480i (SD) signal on all outputs by
default. Change this to 1080 by pressing Menu > System Setup > HDTV Setup
and select 1080 from the drop-down menu. Subcontractors almost always
skip this step when setting up receivers, so it never hurts to check.
At the ground block, connect the cable from the 222 to
port of your diplexer. Make a short jumper and connect the blue SAT port of the
diplexer to the ground block. Connect the white VHF/UHF
port of the diplexer to the cable going to the second TV. Connect the
antenna input of the second TV directly to this cable, set the TV to
"AIR" mode and tune it to channel 60.